Around the beginning of the year, I told my sister Clarissa I was ready for a road trip. We hadn’t done one in forever and I thought we should plan one to celebrate her upcoming birthday. I gave her the choice of destination and she immediately chose Laurel, Mississippi, the home of Ben and Erin Napier and origin of HGTV’s popular Home Town.
I’d never seen an episode at that point, but she took care of my lack of education, and I was immediately hooked. I’ve always been a sucker for revitalizing historic areas, love the show, appreciate the atmosphere you pick up on in their episodes, and was really looking forward to the experience. After the fact, I’m here to say that, of all the vacations we’ve taken together, this was one of the best!
Big picture: Although we did plan for travel to other cities, we focused primarily on the historic part of Laurel, which is where the Napiers and their businesses are, and from the beautiful architecture to the quirky streets to the phenomenal people, we truly felt right at home. Admittedly, this is an area rich in tourists, so obviously the businesses are going to focus more on customer service than the average checker at the big box store. Still, we weren’t the only tourists commenting on how friendly everyone was; I overheard several such conversations. Too, as a Christian, I was delighted by how many of the stores played Christian music.
We did make one major mistake, and I’ll share it right now so you can save yourself the frustration. We planned our trip for Saturday through Thursday. What we didn’t realize is that some of the places we would specifically end up wanting to go are only open Thursday through Saturday. We still had a fantastic time, but it would have been better if we’d done more research. We’ve already decided that, were we to go back, our trip would start on Wednesday.
We also could have attended church Sunday morning if we’d planned ahead. Honestly, it’s amazing what you don’t think about.
We arrived late on Saturday, so that day was a wash as far as Laurel was concerned. Then, on Sunday morning, with almost everything closed while people were in church, we parked downtown and started walking. It was a beautiful day, and we were able to ogle the gorgeous old houses and buildings to our hearts’ content because we pretty much had the streets to ourselves. By the time we got hungry, we found the one place that was open: Grits and Some. If you go to Laurel, plan to eat a meal at Grits and Some. I don’t remember what Clarissa ate, but I had some truly excellent biscuits and sausage gravy (more than I could eat), and the price was good. I paid around $7 before the tip. We fully intended to eat there again later in the week. That didn’t happen for two reasons: We failed to pay attention to their hours of operation, and we found something different for “breakfast” the next morning.
Enter Forever Nutrition. I’d heard of loaded teas before, but didn’t know what they were and this place sells them (and many other things). Since we were alone in the store the owner took time to fill us in on loaded teas and… well, a lot, really. By the time we left on that first day, we felt like we’d found a friend. From that point on, Forever Nutrition was our first stop in the morning. A healthy breakfast? Maybe not so much, but it sure tasted good, and we seriously enjoyed getting to know the owner a little better and hearing her thoughts about the town, and the Napiers.
Speaking of Ben and Erin, we saw them that day at lunch. At our new friend’s suggestion, we went to Wilson’s Commissary (southern cooking), which is what I think of as community dining. Instead of individual tables, you have long rows of tables. It’ an efficient use of space, allowing them to serve quite a few people in a small room, and it’s clearly a popular destination; they need all those chairs. At one point, while I was looking around, I caught a glimpse, only a glimpse, of a woman whose haircut matched Erin’s and who, even more telling, was using her hands the way Erin does when she talks. With people between us, I couldn’t be sure, so I texted Clarissa, who was sitting across from me. (Community tables, remember? I didn’t want to say it out loud and have the local beside me think I was a stalking fan.) She was able to see not only Erin, but Ben sitting beside her.
Did we approach them? Definitely not. We are fans, but not that type of fan. We just thought it was cool that we’d seen them in their normal habitat, so to speak. Interestingly, it seemed like Ben intentionally stuck around for a few minutes after everyone else in their party left, just to make himself available to people. I can’t be sure if that was his purpose, of course, but it was nice to see him shaking hands.
In talking to the owner of Forever Nutrition (Can’t believe I never got her name!), we learned that what we’d expected…hoped…is true. The town is very protective of this family. She didn’t tell us a whole lot, but did share one story that made it clear just how dangerous fame can be and how the town comes together to have their backs. All of which is another reason we had no intention of approaching them.
One last thing on food. We ate well while we were in Mississippi, but our hands down favorite restaurant was the Bird Dog Cafe. This is one of the locations Ben and Erin had worked on, which is why Clarissa knew about it and wanted to go. The atmosphere is phenomenal, but oh, the food! Oh man, the food! I just can’t! They have a great menu with fancier choices, but I opted for a meatball sub that beat every other sub I’ve ever had. My receipt says I also had a salad, and I’m sure it was awesome too, but that sub left an impact. I was so full that I almost didn’t order dessert, but I had a feeling their chocolate peanut butter cheesecake would be equally amazing. I was right. So, if you go to the Bird Dog cafe, get dessert too!
Moving right along, I’m sure it won’t surprise anyone that one of our favorite things to do when on vacation is shop. Even if I don’t have much to spend, as long as I have something budgeted for shopping I’m happy. With that in mind, some of the places that got my money were…
Office Products Center & Gifts
Yes, it’s an odd name. I didn’t ask, but suspect it started out as an office supply store and someone was smart enough to start adding gifts. It’s about half and half now, and though there were many things I liked, I settled on long-sleeved, Laurel-themed, Christmas Ts for the two of us. Clarissa found a gorgeous leather purse and a few other things. We were there for a while and had a blast visiting with the owner and other shoppers. It’s what I referred to earlier; even with other shoppers the feeling in downtown Laurel is one of community.
The Remnant
As soon as we heard about this resale shop, we knew we had to go, because its profits help fund housing for women and children who are going through truly hard times (think domestic abuse, recovery, etc.). Walking in was a nice surprise, because you don’t get a resale shop vibe at all. I suppose I would call it a resale boutique because they’ve done a beautiful job with the decor, and their staging of the antiques and similar items makes you feel like you’re in an antique store. They also sell clothing, and I did buy some.
The Plaid Pecan
Also a resale shop, this one netted me two sweaters and two tops, one of which was new with tags, and even the new top only cost $10. I left happy.
The Scotsman
Fans of the show know The Scotsman is Ben’s company. It sells a wide variety of both leather and wood items, as well as other very cool gifts. We shopped there two different days. The first day, I discovered absolutely adorable child-sized wood items: My youngest granddaughter got a maple cutting board, “knife,” and rolling pin for her birthday. They are made for a child, but are adult quality and I can see her using them for a very long time. The children’s section was a definite challenge to my self-control, and it was only one corner in a fabulous store. We spent a lot of time oohing and aahing that day. Then, after he learned about the leather items they offer, my brother-in-law had us go back the next day to shop for him, and we hit the Home Town fan jackpot.
One wall of the Scotsman is a huge window that lets you see into the wood shop where they film episodes. And they were filming! We got to speak with one of his team members while we watched, and learned some really interesting things – like just how grueling the shooting schedule is. We also shopped, and I bought one little thing for me, a leather business card holder. I couldn’t leave without something to help me remember the experience and, besides, I needed it.
Scent Library
I tried hard to resist the temptation. The Scent Library is another place we went twice, and the second time was because I could not get the memory of one particular candle out of my head. The Scent Library is Erin’s brainchild. Their tag line is “Every scent tells a story,” and the shop is set up accordingly; it looks like a library. The scent I couldn’t pass up is Leiper’s Fork. It makes me think fall and Christmas. Here’s its story.
On trips to visit friends outside of Nashville, we spent most of it at the hearth of a wood burning fireplace in Leiper’s Fork. After gathering firewood from the dense woods around their house, spending a cold night fireside in flannel pajamas was the best ending to the day. – Erin Napier
Since I was already buying one candle, it didn’t take much for the “Blind Date with a Candle” display to suck me in. One description sounded like it would fit me, and the discounted price was enough to bring me back to that table for the third and fatal…I mean final… time. I ended up with Ouida’s Garden, a luscious floral that I’m really glad I bought.
Hellfighters
This place is amazing! At first glance it looks like it would be a motorcycle shop, and it is, but it’s much more. They do custom work on bikes and Jeeps and have quite a few bikes in the showroom/store. They carry a little of everything from clothing in a variety of styles to accessories to fun and funky gifts to… Well, everything. They also have a motorcycle history museum upstairs that we both enjoyed visiting.
And best of all, which we didn’t learn until we checked out, they support Mission At The Cross, a home that helps recovering addicts find victory. We were told that pretty much everyone who works there is someone who has been going through their program, so they’re also being prepared to re-enter the workforce. Definitely pay this place a visit!
You’ll find street after street of shops and places to eat in Laurel. These are just the ones I can remember because I still have the receipts. There are other things to do as well. They have multiple museums, and the visitors center is a must. Not too far down the road is a living history museum that our poor planning kept us from experiencing. As I said earlier, there were several interesting places we missed because of our scheduling mistake.
They also have events throughout the year, and I’m sure the place is beautiful at Christmas. Clarissa is already talking to Brother about going back at some point during the holidays for that very reason. If you’re looking for a road trip, here’s your sign.
